Amalfi Coast & Positano
My first taste of Italy was the Amalfi Coast and it still hasn’t left me. My love affair with Italy began when I first went to Amalfi for a friends (movie star-worthy) wedding and it totally stole a piece of my heart.
Ten years on and a million places on my travel list and I am still always drawn back to this beautiful place called Italy. There is just something about it that makes my heart go crazy and for me, it’s the perfect place to holiday.
Five years ago my husband and I chose Tuscany as the place to get married. This was a huge decision for us as we had so many other places we loved and let’s just say it ended up being a perfect choice. We had a ridiculously beautiful, dream wedding in every way and if you have been to Italy you won’t be surprised by this, there is just something about it.
We then decided to take 30 of our friends on the first week of our honeymoon to the Amalfi Coast- Positano, Amalfi, Capri, and Ischia. As you can imagine this was the best holiday EVER!
So it is safe to say I truly LOVE Italy and the Amalfi Coast. If you haven’t been and you want to go I would highly recommend it as one of my favourite places I have been this far in my life. If you are anything like me read on and add this to your bucket list now.
Love a little Amalfi Coast, Capri and Ischia (well basically Italy full stop)
What do I love so much about the Amalfi Coast and Italy? It’s surely a combination of the fun people, the beautiful scenery, the way of life and of course the food. The homemade pasta and pizza with some Prosseco and a Bellini or two are all part of my Italian love affair.
Where to Stay- Amalfi, Positano, Capri or Ischia?
The Amalfi Coast and nearby islands are a great option for travellers as there are so many nice places to visit. I do find it hard to send people to just one spot, so if I could give you any advice I would recommend you have a few nights in each place. This will give you the best experience of this magical coastline and islands. I promise you won’t be disappointed.
On the mainland, you can stay in the popular Amalfi or Positano but there is also Sorrento and numerous other little, less touristy villages dotted along the stunning coastline. Otherwise you can stay on one of the beautiful Islands of Capri or Ischia surrounded by the famous, aqua blue waters.
If you can’t move around for any reason and choose to stay in just one place, don’t worry you can always day trip to each place on one of the numerous ferries available.
Two to three days in each place is a good amount of time and I have done this numerous times. The coast is a safe place to travel alone; it’s romantic with your husband or partner; great with a group of friends and family and both fine with and without children. I have stayed in villas, apartments, and hotels and enjoyed it every way. The accommodation you choose will depend on your group size, budget and time. There are numerous sites to google to find apartments and villas but it can take hours of research. It is worth having a look at them if you are on a budget, planning on staying for a long period of time, a group or want a real life experience. These are a few hotel recommendations, I have stayed at a few and dream of staying in some -
Splurge
https://www.hotelsantacaterina.it
http://www.ilsanpietro.it/en/index.php
Budget
https://www.residencehotel-amalfi.it
How do you get to the Amalfi Coast or islands?
The best way to travel to this part of the world is to fly, drive or train into Naples and head to the ferry terminal to take a ferry to your chosen destination. The Ferry terminal has ferries that run from Naples to Amalfi, Positano, Capri, Sorrento and Ischia. You can buy your tickets in advance or buy them at the station on the day. I usually buy tickets on the day of travel but you can ask your travel agent to pre-book or buy them online if you prefer.
Best Time to visit?
Peak season in Italy is July and August, but it’s still my favourite time to travel. I have travelled to Amalfi during this time and never had a problem with it being too much. Although, I would suggest booking places in advance if you have preferences for accommodation or restaurants. If you don’t like crowds then avoid August and maybe go anytime from May until September. I love summer in Italia and prefer to travel for the warm weather and buzzing atmosphere. I am a crazy warm weather lover- sweaty skin and frizzy hair; I will take it to be in Italy for summer. In certain parts of Italy winter is great but I haven’t been to the Amalfi Coast in the cold.
Is it easy getting around?
You can get around the area by car, bus, taxi or boat. Although I wouldn’t bother hiring a car or driving in this area as it is a bit crazy driving and usually busy. It’s not easy to find parking and the windy cliff edges are stunning to look at but not easy to drive. Italian drivers can be crazy although I sometimes think they are better than the rest of the world!! I have had a car one trip and was without numerous times and I have to say I enjoyed it more without the car. If you like walking and you don’t mind a step or a few hundred down to the beaches or hills you will be happy on foot or with public transport. Normally I love driving in Italy and having the freedom of a car but this is one area I wouldn’t bother.
The easiest way by far and how I prefer to travel on the Amalfi Coast is to take a ferry to your destination and then bus, taxi or walk around while in the area. You can easily ferry all over and it’s great being on the water.
Amalfi
I have stayed in Amalfi town a few times or just outside and found this a perfect place to start your holiday. You can make it your base and easily visit other places from here. A few days here is enough, although you could always have more time if you wanted to do more exploring and relax on the beaches.
Amalfi town is buzzing with activity and has a great vibe despite being touristy. You can walk to the restaurants, beaches and shops. You can spend a day walking around exploring the village stopping for a long lunch and some people watching or a spot of shopping.
Or if you prefer relaxing you can spend the day at one of the many beaches or beach clubs or by your pool if you have one.
You can hire a boat for the day and visit the beaches via the boat.
Why not take the boat or ferry to Positano for the day and then have a shop and lunch and make your way back after lunch. If you are fancy-free (unlike me now with children) then you should stay for sunset cocktails and dinner with a view.
If you fancy a day trip, you can easily drive up to Ravello or visit the other little towns along the coast if you have a car or take the bus.
Positano
Positano is famous for it’s picturesque views; it looks equally as beautiful from both the sea and hillside. In the day it’s full of pastel colours and at night is as pretty as a picture with all the scattered lights. It is probably most famous for the stunning views but also the shopping. You can spend hours pottering around this little village, any way you desire you won’t be disappointed.
For beach goers you can easily spend the day at one of Positano’s beaches either people watching or boat watching at one of the famous beach clubs right at the base of the town.
As I mentioned before, hiring a boat to go Positano from Amalfi is the best day out and a great way to see the coast. If you’re not keen to take your own boat then you can take the ferry one-way and bus or taxi back. It’s great to see Positano by boat and then take the road back. Beware the road is not for the faint hearted. The windy cliff edge, combined with Italian drivers and tourists is a nail-biting experience with a view. You may have seen this road in the movies, a glamour couple driving with the wind in their hair in a vintage red convertible with the most amazing backdrop. The movies tend to forget to add a touch of danger and speed.
Anyway you choose to travel it will be a beautiful drive you will never forget. You will need to hire a car rather than the bus if you want to re-live the movies.
If you’re a romantic like me (and can be child free) then one night you should book a fancy dinner in Positano overlooking the town. This is a stunning view to share with your lover or friend or by yourself, it really doesn’t matter it’s something not to be missed.
If you decide to stay in Positano you can do a day trip to Amalfi the same way via ferry and bus. You can also hire boats from there.
Ravello
Ravello is a beautiful village in the hills above the coast with breathtaking views and stunning cliff-side gardens.
You can get lost exploring the cobbled streets and find a nice restaurant for lunch.
You must go and see Villa Cimbrone if in Ravello, you need to follow the signs in the village for the villa or ask someone. It’s a little walk from the centre through the village and alleyways maybe a kilometre.
Villa Cimbrone is a stunning villa surrounded by the most glorious gardens, set above the most breathtaking views you will ever see of the Amalfi coast. Timely, beautiful and elegant, I fell in love with this place at a friends wedding and absolutely no other wedding has been quite as beautiful. It blew my mind and I wish I could set the scene for that day. Champagne cocktails at sunset on the immaculate grounds was like being at a party in the Great Gatsby era.
The wedding then moved into a pillared room set up for dinner and dancing, which was like something out of an ancient book, so impressive and grand. Candles were lit all over the venue and the tables set so elegantly fit for any king and queen to dine. We were all pinching ourselves all day and night as it honestly felt like we were at a celebrities wedding. Any which way you looked, you were in awe of the beauty and the views. If you can get yourself an invite to a wedding here then you must go or try and crash one as it’s so worth it!
When you visit the villa you can pay a small fee to have a walk around the gardens, have a drink or have lunch there at the restaurant. Or if you have a big budget to spend you could even stay in the hotel.
https://www.hotelvillacimbrone.com
Its charm and splendour, combined with the most breathtaking views of the coast you will ever see make it a must stop.
If you want to explore Ravello then you can visit the Villa for a walk or a drink and then have lunch somewhere else in the village.
If you want to stay at Ravello here are a few other star worthy hotels you can stay at if you have a big budget.
https://www.belmond.com/hotels/europe/italy/amalfi-coast/belmond-hotel-caruso/about
Beach clubs
I spent a month living just outside of Amalfi town and during this time we used to visit different beaches for the day. We would drive or bus to recommended beaches along the coast and then walk down the many (sometimes hundreds) of steps to get to the beach. Don’t fret, as you don’t have to walk the hundreds of steps if you don’t want to as they do offer to pick you up via boat from Amalfi town or nearby villages. They will pick you up by boat take you to the beach for the day. You can have a nice lunch at their restaurant and then spend the day lazing in the sun and swimming.
Most of the beaches are rocky so you will have to get used to walking on them, which is a fun exercise. It’s a great idea to hire a deck chair if you don’t want to lie on rocks for day. The best part is they transport you back via boat to the Amalfi centre with a full stomach and salty skin after a perfect day at the beach. We loved this beach and spent a beautiful day here with our family.
Maiori, Minori, Atrani and Praiano
These four villages are some of the other little towns along the coast that are less touristy. You may find them a little more rustic and cheaper for accommodation. I prefer the more popular villages that I have mentioned to stay and spend most of my time. However, these are still great to experience and many people prefer the less busy places to travel.
Don’t be put of by the appearance of some of the restaurants, as you will see they are still serve great food and give a more local Italian experience. We always go by local’s recommendations for food and I try to befriend locals that seems trustworthy. Some people might seem unfriendly at first but don’t give up just keep mingling and smiling and you will find some great locals and recommendations.
The Amalfi Coast is truly a little place of pleasure and I always love going back to visit this special place. You should go, you will love it too!
